Rías Baixas, Albariño and pazos

A lick of sea salt hangs in the air as the tide exposes the mussel rafts scattered across the Ría de Arousa, and the granite smells of rain. From Santiago, we slide into the Val do Salnés, where Albariño was already being chronicled by Cistercian monks at Armenteira in the 1100s. In Cambados, the arcaded square of Fefiñáns and hórreos on stilts speak of old Galicia, while vine-wreathed pazos guarded by century-old camellias trace the lineage of coastal families. A short hop to La Toja reveals its historic soap works, palm fronds in the breeze, and oyster parks just offshore.

The day runs smoothly: hotel pickup in Santiago, your dedicated driver at the wheel of a Mercedes, the car at your disposal from morning to dusk. He drives, you taste. Timed stops match the tides for clams and gooseneck barnacles, with secured bookings at two Rías Baixas wineries (DO since 1988). It’s about 1 h 10 to Cambados, then a further 12 km to a working pazo near Meaño, and the scenic coastal return via O Grove. Flexible pacing throughout, and no hunting for parking in those narrow, cobbled streets.